Venice

Our next destination? The city knee-deep in love and water. 

I was eight years old when I first went to Venice. My parents took me for a Gondola ride that took us around Venice for a whopping-dollar-whipping five minutes and I remember, as much as finding the whole thing rather pleasant, I was disappointed with it. So first things first - don't make gondola your number one to-do list in Venice, especially for the poor student traveller. My travel companion and I only had some seven waking hours in Venice, during which we substituted riding the Gondola for the following activities -

...looking for Ironman's mask...

...waving to the policeman in a speed-boat...

...tickling the bottom of our feet on a bridge...

...and searching for the Vampires of Venice.

The luxury of water taxis are available to help you get from A to B but if you wear a designer belt called "Rope" like me then allow yourself to wander a bit and find your way. Also don't expect the information points to know where every single hotel is placed (there are about 500).

Mmm.

Ok, so the real reason we didn't do the Gondola was because of this. On the first night we went into a restaurant and accepted every single food and drink the waiter had to offer (we were blinded by his charm), which led us to a cold and dark place called Broke Before Hitting London.

The Venetian morning is very calm, and very nice to walk in, especially in winter. It is a slightly different atmosphere to the glamourous hubbub in summer. January, the month where seemingly little happens, it is perhaps as close as to domestic Venice as you can get.

I kinda wish I went on that Gondola now. Perhaps next time. 

Roma Roma-ma

All roads lead to Rome. However, once in Rome, all roads lead to each other, interwebbing and interweaving and interacting and interconnecting,  leading you all over Rome except THAT place you want to find on the map, such as the Forum, the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain, or your own hostel.

The only reason we found the Forum and the Trevi Fountain was because we got lost getting to the Colosseum. The mission to find the Colosseum with nothing but a tourist map and vestigial sense of direction was miserably unsuccessful and is something that will lead me back to Rome again in the future. However, we spent a glorious half-day in Vatican City before we legged it to Termini for our train.

Vatican City is indeed beautiful. If I knew that I would be trying to write a travel blog back then I would have taken more pictures for your convenience.

This is only 0.0001% of what Vatican City has to offer.

If you can find a guide to Vatican City, go with a guide. We had an amazing guide who was obviously in love with Roman Art History and you could tell he knew his stuff because he carried a tattered art history textbook in his bag that I mistook for rags. He must have read that book a hundred times. He was also Scottish and that's always a plus. Luckily it was winter time and the Vatican Museum was ours to wander and conquer however we wanted at whatever pace that suited us (or more specifically the Scottish guide). This meant that the tour took five hours - and although legs were jelly after it all, Trusty Companion and I left knowing a thing or two about Michelangelo and the Sistine Chapel. Staying in this lovely hostel will get you involved in one of the most memorable tours: http://www.hostelalessandro.com/. The tour costs some 30 euro but totally worth it if you appreciate a good tour with intelligent company. It will explain in detail the hidden stories behind these pictures and I bet now you're curious as Curious George is curious as curious is curious.

After the tour, Trust Companion and I simply ran around Rome and took hasty pictures like this -

The bridge in front of Sant Angelo Castle

Sant Angelo Castle

It is incredibly easy to get lost in Rome and Roman Italians aren't really known for their friendliness, especially if you approach them in English. You don't need a travel pass but carry around a map and give yourself around three days in Rome (Vatican City itself will take up a whole day) if you really want to appreciate everything they have.

The Rhodes Less Travelled

Reminds me of a little island in Korea I used to know.

Perhaps the most interesting part of Rhodes was the journey. Silly Poseidon lost his trident and was making a big fuss over it so there was a five hour delay before seas calmed down and the ferry actually started sailing. I recall it wasn't much of a bother since the ferry was quite pleasant. Blue Star Ferries will take you to Rhodes from Piraeus port, a 1 euro trip from Athens. Trusty Companion and I were eager so we arrived at the port some four hours before the departure time (anticipating a nearby cafe/shopping mall/Disneyland). Do not do this. There is only one building you can take shelter/hang out and it looks like this inside.

The only travellers.

Perhaps we should have gone straight to the ship to board, because by the time we got there all the best couches were taken so we took the chairs instead. It is a 15 hour sail and there are lots of things to do, like DRINKING GREEK COFFEE. 1.50 euro per cup. You'll probably be distracted by what's going on in the ferry for a couple of hours (bars, shops etc) but it's up to you to amuse yourself with your own form of entertainment for the rest of the journey, so bring knitting or something.

We played Hide and Seek.

Trusty Companion and I took a taxi from the port to a very quiet part of Rhodes - a small town called Kremasti, which, we found out later, was very far from the general tourist hubbub of the Island. Once again, we got the feeling we were the only two people there, but by this time the sensation was familiar and we decided to embrace it. There was a beach in front of the hotel so screw winter imma gonna wear shorts and swim.

It's like spring! 

Oohoohoo!

Le foot on le beach!

It was flipping freezing. I thought I left half my limbs in the sea, I couldn't feel them. It started raining later in the afternoon so by the time we were back at the hotel Trusty Companion and I were like two soaked rats clad in runny black mascara. I'd love to share a picture of this but I have an image to maintain. Isn't it strange how such disasters replay rather fondly in your mind?

Rhodes, like the rest of Greece, has its fair portion of rich ancient history. Had we had enough money to pay for taxis we would have had the grand tour and watched centuries of history move before us. (Oh yes, another reason to avoid Rhodes in the winter - no public transport.) We missed out on ancient castles, the Acropolis of Lindos, ruins, and temples... Rhodes is a place I have unfinished business with. I'll be back. Here is just a taste of what Old Town is like.

The entrance to Old Town.

Greek-looking place with Greek-looking walls and... round rocks... in a pyramid... hmm why do I never read the information plaques?

Old Town has an active nightlife so be sure to stick around until the sun sets for a real Greek ParTay.

Honourable mention: Canton Chinese Restaurant (1b Kremastis Avenue, Rhodes Town) - I don't remember the specifics on food but the staff there are super friendly, and the Vietnamese waitress was one of the prettiest waitresses I have ever seen. Dinner is dear but since money wasn't spent anywhere else we could enjoy ourselves for the night (then weep when we found out we couldn't afford the taxi to Lindos Castle the next day). I don't have a picture of the restaurant but maybe the Sherlock Holmes out there can figure out where it is with this one and only picture I have.

Customary fortune cookie. "Happiness is before you, not after you" :D

However, once again, I beg of you, go in the summer, since winter is a period of deep hibernation for Greece. Most of our time was spent in the hotel being entertained by our own creativity, such as making hats out of hotel towels, filming videos of drunken blabber, cursing tempermental hotel Wifi, dancing to Danza Kuduro, and in-depth girl talks. Hopefully I'll be here again in the summer sometime, when shops are open, bars are open, restaurants are open, people on the street and neighbours at the hotel.

And water in the swimming pool.

Chasing Boys in Athens

When you live in a country like New Zealand, and come from a relatively immobile family like mine, Europe is a fantasy. Being in Ireland meant that I could live my fantasy of hopping around Europe and catch Pokemon. Or gain life points for myself at least. However, being a travel noob who is pretty much scared of anything and everything, I elected a companion to go with me so that if I get mugged I can run for it while she fights the thugs off, and together we planned a 9-day trip to 5 cities.

With my trusty travel companion by my side, we set forth to our first destination, Athens, the capital of Greece.

In Athena's eyes...

Athens in January is quiet, cool, and calm... actually it's flippin deserted. But the great thing about that is you can roam the streets like you own the damn place. The Acropolis Museum is amazing and free for students so make sure you go there - you will worship the Ancient Greeks for being so incredibly talented and every part of the museum is absolutely flabbergasting you can't help but take pictures despite not being allowed to. (This, I found annoying, because I was sure I could take pictures without flash - each staff member told me something different.) I was caught since there were no body else in the museum except me, my trusty companion, and twenty five security guards and was made to delete pictures on the spot. So I'm afraid no sneak peeks here but the mystery makes it better, right? Since now, you really must go and see for yourself.

Unfortunately January is the big renovation month for the Acropolis, so we could only admire it from afar. The Acropolis may be worth another visit to Greece when it is warmer and sunnier, in sandals and a sheer Grecian summer dress. :)

The view from a cliff. Couldn't help but think we were missing out.

The museum and the walk to Acropolis was intentional, but the other sights were stumbled on, influenced by a messy tourist map and two very handsome occiputs.

The pair of good-looking occiputs belonged to two Japanese guys whom we spotted at Starbucks cafe. (By the way, when you're in Greece, don't waste your money drinking normal coffee like Starbucks - Greek coffee is PRECIOUS.) We tried ridiculous methods to attract their attention but they would not give us a single glance. We sat on the table next to them, a-hemming, ka-chooing, then wheezing and sneezing as if to spread the next round of the plague (creepy, much?). But no. We'd walk to the bathroom and back just to pass their table but we sorta overdid the staring bit because they started shifting in their seats rather uncomfortably before throwing away their half-empty frappuccinos and bolting for the door.

But my trusty companion and I were not going to give up that easily, oho no no. We ran straight after them, and when we saw the two black occiputs turning left, we pranced after them like two kittens after noms. Along our way we saw some of this -

Changing of the guards in Syntagma Square. Yes, a guy CAN look awesome in a dress, tights, pompom, and tassels!

I knew I should have made notes about what this is...

... and this... 

... and this.

A thousand apologies for the lack of information. I have a habit of taking pictures of nice things and not remembering what the hell it was. "Garden in Athens with building with Greek flag and white columns" does not work on Google either. If you know what these photos represent, please leave a comment below.

Long story short those two boys kept dodging us like red laser dots, finally jumping onto a train headed towards the airport. We called it a night and decided to drink our sorrows away, pondering this short meaningful relationship we had and its rejection.

Although it didn't feel like it, Athens is meant to be one of the safest cities in the world. So even if the impression is dodgy, explore the city as much as you can for beer, food, and cheap markets, especially in Monastiraki square. There are many stray dogs but they are extrememly gentle, and the people - although may look fierce, are friendly too. We only stayed for one night, and I guess that was not enough to get a proper feel of the city, especially since half that time was spent on driving two Japanese boys out of the country (oh god why). So go in the summer, and stay for more than a day, and your Athenian enjoyment will be tenfold.

P.S. I Love You

This blog isn't about the movie but now that I have your attention let me tell you about the Glendalough Mountains in County Wicklow, Ireland. The significance of this place, is, as well as being the film location for the movie P.S. I Love You flashbacks, is also one of the most used film location in Europe (The Tudors, Ballykissangel, Braveheart, Excalibur, King Arthur, Reign of Fire, Becoming Jane, Lassie, and Ella Enchanted to name a few). Its scenery deserves such praise because of its utter magnificence, where one can truly feel the awesomeness of God's (or Mother Nature's) workmanship whilst wandering through the mountains like an ant being dropped in a new garden. (By the way, I havent' actually seen the movie P.S I Love You. I know it is supposed to be heart-warming and good for the soul and inspires you to live life in a certain way you never thought before, but it's just one of those movies I never got around to seeing. I'll get to it someday. Someday. So even for those who haven't seen the movie and thinking you're missing out, 'tis fine, you will still be impressed coming here. I haven't seen the movie and the adventure was rather spiffing.)

There are various ways to get to Co. Wicklow from Dublin city. The easiest is by a Wicklow bus that is especially designed for tourists, which stops at all the significant places in between until they safely escaort you to Glendalough Mountains and safely bring you back to Dublin at the end of the day.

Or you can do what we did and take the DART train and get off somewhere that is roughly estimated to be county Wicklow and onto a tiny desolate train platform and walk out of the dismal station only to find trees and more trees and no buildings and just trees. But no fear, the Garda (Irish policemen) are very friendly people and after a few hours of drifting in the woods they will find you, and will kindly escort you to your destination.

Garda - Irish police, and where we ended up instead of the bus station.

Once you get to Glendalough Mountains, you can find a handy little map in the information centre. This map tells you about all the different kind of walks you can take about the mountain, ranging from a mild hour-long scenic stroll to six hours of rocks, swamps, slippery planks testing your sense of balance and slopes that tear your thighs. We took the four hour route, which involved enough rocks to keep our muscles busy and enough flat land for us to trek and admire the scenery - and saw these incredible things:

And this church:

I love this bit. Old and romantic.

And this rock:

Trying to be Anderson's The Little Mermaid,

Some advice though. If you go in the winter like I did - dress warm, with a good beanie, good earmuffs, and good trainers that won't freeze your toes if you slip off a plank and into a stream. As you approach higher up the mountain you can almost feel the wind cut into one ear and out the other like a blade and it is very easy to end up with an awful headache from the incessant wind-slashing. Or go when it's warmer. Yeah, do that. The sun will stay out for longer too so you'll have more time to appreciate the scenery.

The Glendalough Mountains also attract many rock climbers. Spot the rock climber! (Hint: He's on the right side of the mountain, about twice the size of this full stop -->.)

At the base of the mountain there is a fancy restaurant for the wonderfully wealthy and a hot dog stall for the pathetically poor. So there's a reward for all after the hike.

Glendalough Mountains is a majestic place. However, the hiking/walking route is all this place has to offer, so be sure to remove yourself from the area before the last bus departs (this must be booked in advance), otherwise you'll be left in the dark among closed information points waiting for that nice policeman to pass by again. And by god aren't we glad he did.

Happy St Patrick's!

Let's jump a bit to March 2012, St Patricks Day. In order not to confuse the few of you lovely people caring enough to read my blog I will make clear that there is a five-month-gap between the last blog entry and this one. For those who find alteration in chronological sequences of events disturbing I will try to keep a smooth linear relationship between events and time progression, and be sure to alert you if there is a small corruption in the system. For the majority of you, however, will not give a rat's ass about such things and that is fine too.

So this weekend is St Patrick's Weekend, where hundreds and thousands from all parts of the world flocked to Dublin to drink and be merry, to buy Irish souvenirs and help the economy, to listen and imitate the Irish accent, and to stand at the front row and watch the parade wearing massive green leprechaun hats in order to obstruct the view of others standing behind them.

Oh the greenery!

I heard that people will already be drunk by 10am on St Patrick's Day. As fun as that sounds, it does tend to make the city a wee bit messy. As soon as I set foot on the streets from my apartment around 11 in the morning I passed a policeman shouting at a drunken man, "Are ye f**king pissing there? Stop pissing!" with the man responding with "I can't f**king stop now, can I?" and the policeman yelling, "Ye f**king disgrace!" I have never seen so many people tinkle the walls in broad daylight since the six-hour-bus drive to an ad-lib camping area in primary school.

St Patricks means a lot more to the Irish than shamrock face paints and guilt-free alcohol - it is a celebration of Ireland and everything Irish. (Have no idea where the saint comes in here.) Dublin, proud to be designtaed as the European City of Science for 2012, used this theme for their parade this year. Different Irish counties (Galway, Dublin, Waterford, Donegal, Wexford) each represented different areas of science (electicity, climatology, human biology etc) in their utmost creativity. I will leave you to decide which county was responsible for which science.

Wexford

Waterford

Galway

Dublin

And one of the twelve marching bands... (apologies for the poor camera work, hard to know what camera is doing when it is raised eight inches above my head :P)

The Irish Craft Beer Festival is where you can try different types of exclusively Irish beer accompanied by less exclusive Irish live music and even less exclusive Irish food. But the atmosphere is great and plenty of beer and food to make you stick around for the afternoon.

Chocolate stout (brewed by Porterhouse) - smells like chocolate with a chocolately aftertaste. Amazing.

This weekend was also an excuse to line up bland roads with lively, colourful things like funfair rides and green lighting.

Illuminated shops

I've never seen Dublin so crowded during my time here since Christmas Eve. When 500,000 people flock to a small city in one weekend, things get pretty intense - even as I write I am hearing many an excited scream and jovial bellows. However, you do need a pretty leathery system in order to keep up with St Patricks in Dublin (and in all other countries celebrating it, I assume). So if you're like me and gets a tad sleepy after a pint or two, arrange small breaks like updating your blog before heading out again.

Archaeology Rocks

Exchange programmes usually allow you to take a few papers outside your general specialisation. This meant that I could take it a little bit easier on my own major and prod around a bit more on other subjects, like archaeology.

The introductory course for Archaeology in UCD (ARCH10010 - or Archeology 101 in Auckland terms) is interesting but since it was an early morning lecture I couldn't help but miss it every now and then. (Fine, 11am isn't early at all but it is before noon, hence morning, hence early.) The point of taking archaeology is not lectures though, it's field trips, and handling whips, and wearing fedoras, and deciphering ancient codes, and escaping poison arrows from tribal men.

The first field trip we went to was the Hill of Tara. This hill is an archaeological complex in County Meath, and contains a number of ancient monuments, and, according to tradition, was the seat of the High Kind of Ireland (thank you Wikipedia). You can look up the specific archaeological details on your own at this link: http://www.megalithicireland.com/Hill%20of%20Tara.htm. But here's the thing about Hill of Tara - if you don't have an eye for the geophysics of medieval Irish archaeology, don't go. To the untrained eye, the Hill of Tara is nothing but an extremely large area of bumpy grass. Unless you go on a plane for an aerial view (which then looks like awesome crop circles), you won't know what you're doing or looking at walking around this place. If you still decide to go, it may be worth investing on a good guide and good, sturdy wellingtons/galoshes/gumboots/rainboots in winter.

How archaeologists see it.

How I see it.

These burial monuments are fun to run up. And perhaps roll down on a warm, sunny day.

Our second archeology field trip was based on the National Museum of Archaeology. Unlike the Hill of Tara, this place is a great place to gather basic knowledge about Irish archaeology, and you don't need to be an archaeological expert to be impressed with what's behind the showcases. I came here once more after the field trip for my own enjoyment. Lots to see and ponder and be inspired from the wit we have descended from. Photography is strictly prohibited but here are some sneak peeks.

Bog body, God knows how he ended up like this.

Two men throwing dogs at giant Me Gusta.

There is also a very sociable Archaeology society in UCD (life-size Indiana Jones poster and lollipops lured me in during Fresher's week). I didn't get to attend all their events but they have medieval walking tours hosted by good looking archaeological tutors, plus archaeology-themed movie nights, large-scale archaeology field trips, and guest speakers who are giants in this field. I wish I attended more of their events but since I joined every society offering goody bags, I ended up not being able to handle all of them.

Much to my disappointment we didn't fight snakes or ancient tribes or repel voodoo spells or get to run from big rolling boulders, but then again all that could have happened in them early morning classes when I was too busy being lazy and playing Monkey Island V. Maybe this semester I'll actually go to campus so that I stop sounding like a dimwit on my blog.